How to Refinish a Bathtub With a DIY Kit: 11 Easy Steps
Refresh Your Bathtub Without Hiring a Pro
Bathtub refinishing is used to give your bathtub a facelift by painting a tough epoxy coating over the existing enamel, acrylic, or fiberglass tub surface. It's not super expensive when considering other options like replacing the tub. It's also relatively easy to do using a do-it-yourself kit instead of hiring a professional. Many DIY kits include epoxy resin with hardener, etching powder, latex gloves, steel wool, brush, cleaning solution, cleaner or thinner, and safety goggles. The epoxy coating comes in white but can be tinted (tint not included).
Read on to learn how to refinish a bathtub on your own and find out when it's best to call a professional to do it for you.
When to Refinish a Bathtub
If your bathtub has seen better days but remains in good structural condition, consider refinishing it to remove stains or scratches or to get rid of an outdated color. If you do it yourself, the cost of materials is about $150 with a kit. However, the national average price when hiring professional help is about $500 for recoating a tub, ranging from $330-$630, according to HomeAdvisor.
The other option is to replace the tub. The national average is about $3,500 to get a new tub and have it installed. Replacement is pricier but recommended when your tub leaks or has a mold or mildew problem that can't be fixed.
Indicators that you should keep your tub and refinish it include:
- The tub is in good condition: Even if your bathtub looks dingy, stained, severely rusted, or has cracks, it can be fixed and recoated to look new.
- The bathroom layout is ideal: If you like how everything lays out and don't want to change much beyond the aesthetics of the tub, resurfacing is your best bet. A new tub will likely require removing or replacing flooring, trim, surrounds, or plumbing.
- The tub is an antique and worth keeping: Refinishing allows you to preserve an older design, such as a clawfoot tub, that adds character to a bathroom.
- The tub is heavy (cast iron) and would be difficult to remove: When removing a tub, the original tub usually has to be cut into pieces to fit through the bathroom door.
Before You Begin
The key to a good DIY result is thorough cleaning and preparation of the surfaces and following the manufacturer's instructions strictly. Protect the surrounding area, including the tile, flooring, and other elements, by masking off and using a dropcloth before, during, and as the resin coating dries.
Safety Considerations
Modern bathtub refinishing kits are often sold as "odorless" products that need no ventilation, but this is an overly optimistic view. The best refinishing products are two-part mixtures that involve mixing an epoxy resin with a chemical hardener, which inevitably produces fumes. Ventilate the space thoroughly and run the bathroom exhaust fan while working. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations regarding using breathing protection or a respirator—especially during the preparation stage when sanding the existing tub.
The process described below summarizes the steps required for most two-part bathtub refinishing products. However, read the manufacturer's directions carefully for specific details on how to use the product.
Need more help? Talk to a bathtub expert
What You'll Need
Equipment / Tools
- Screwdriver
- Putty knife
- Abrasive pad
- Rubber gloves
- Breathing protection
- Bucket
- Sponge
- Paint roller with roller cover
- Sponge paintbrush
- Roller tray
- Caulk gun
Materials
- Chemical caulk remover
- Bleach
- Abrasive cleanser
- Dropcloth
- Painter's tape
- #400 to #600 wet/dry sandpaper
- Paper towels
- Tack cloth
- Tub-and-tile caulk
- Bathtub refinishing kit
Instructions
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Remove Hardware
Where possible, remove escutcheons and cover plates from plumbing fixtures. Bathtub spouts can be temporarily unscrewed and removed during refinishing. Clean away any dirt or caulk residue from openings in the bathtub using a putty knife.
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Clean the Bathtub
Clean the tub thoroughly and remove all caulking from the joints around the tub. If necessary, use a chemical caulk remover to remove all traces of caulk from the surfaces.
Use bleach to clean away any mildew stains, then scrub the entire tub thoroughly with an abrasive cleanser or with LimeAway applied with an abrasive pad. Rinse thoroughly with clear water.
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Mask Off Areas Around the Tub
Use dropcloths and painter's tape to mask off floors and walls around the tub. The epoxy coating will be hard to remove, so guard against drops and spills.
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Ventilate the Space
The etching, sanding, and coating operation will create dust and fumes. In addition to the fumes of the epoxy product, simple sanding can create fiberglass dust that shouldn't be inhaled. Before beginning work, open windows, turn on the exhaust fan or set up portable fans to improve ventilation in the space. It's also a good idea to wear breathing protection or whatever respiratory equipment the manufacturer recommends.
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Etch the Tub Surfaces
If the kit includes an etching powder, apply it to the tub's surface with water and scrub the surfaces with an abrasive pad. The etching powder helps dull the finish so the new coating will adhere. Rinse the tub thoroughly with clear water.
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Sand the Tub
Sand the tub with #400 or #600 with wet/dry sandpaper while still wet to further roughen the surfaces. Make sure to roughen all corners and edges of the tub; this is a critical step to ensure the epoxy coating will adhere without later peeling. Thorough sanding is especially important if the kit does not include an etching powder. Rinse the tub and let it dry.
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Wipe Down the Bathtub
Wipe the tub with paper towels to ensure it is completely dry, then wipe with a tack cloth to remove any dust or paper residue.
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Prime the Surfaces
If the kit includes a primer, apply it to the bathtub surfaces. Apply the primer with a roller and foam brush, and let it dry as directed.
Some refinishers are self-priming and do not require a separate prime coat. Do not prime bathtub surfaces with ordinary commercial paint primer; use only the primer included in the kit you buy.
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Mix the Epoxy Coating
Blend the hardener or catalyst into the epoxy resin, as directed by the label instructions. You will now need to work steadily as epoxy coatings gradually harden once mixed. The product label usually tells you how much working time ("open time") you have, but you should be prepared to coat the entire tub in one working session.
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Apply the Coating
Begin applying the coating to the sides of the tub with a roller. Alternate between vertical and horizontal strokes to prevent drips and roller ridges. Move to the tub deck (horizontal surfaces), then roll the bottom. Finish the edges as needed with a sponge brush.
Apply a second coat of coating as directed by the label instructions. Some products require immediate recoating, while others may suggest one or two hours of drying time before applying the second coating.
Let the final coat dry and cure, as directed by the label. Some products require a full two days of cure time; others may take as long as three days. Keep the area well-ventilated for at least the first day of curing.
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Caulk and Reinstall Hardware
Seal the tub's joints with fresh silicone caulk and let it cure overnight. Reinstall the faucet hardware. Your refinished bathtub is now ready to use.
When to Call a Professional
DIY refinishing can be a perfect temporary solution to a worn, unattractive tub. Still, it may not last more than five years before a new application is needed. Most people consider DIY refinishing a stop-gap until a complete bathtub replacement is practical. If your refinished tub must have an extraordinarily smooth and durable finish, it's best to hire a professional service to perform the refinishing.
Professional tub refinishers often market their process as "reglazing." Their specific steps may differ somewhat, but the basic process is more or less standard. The methods professionals use are similar to that of DIY kits, but the pros typically spend a lot of time repairing chips and cracks—often for an additional fee. Further, the etching process may be done with an acidic solution rather than an abrasive powder, and there is almost always a primer coat applied before the refinisher applies several coats of epoxy coating—usually with a sprayer rather than a roller and brush. The technician may return a few days later to buff the surface to a shiny finish.
The result is a finish that is usually better than that achieved by DIYers. However, don't expect any refinishing job—even by pros—to be as good as a new bathtub.
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How long will a reglazed tub last?
Bathtub refinishing or reglazing will last five to 10 years or possibly longer, depending on use, care, and maintenance.
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Is it cheaper to refinish a bathtub or replace it?
It is significantly cheaper to resurface a tub than replace it. On average, it costs about $3,500 to purchase and install a new tub. Refinishing a tub on your own costs about $150; with professional help, expect to pay about $500.
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Can you only reglaze a tub once?
You can reglaze a tub as many times as you want. When done well, a resurfacing treatment can last up to 10 years.