How to Remodel a Shower Stall With Tile

How Tile a Shower

1. Strip the Walls to the Studs

   Remove everything in the shower alcove down to the studs. Begin with the faucet parts and other hardware, then move to the surround panels. You may need to cut out the drywall 1 1/2 to 2 inches away from the panel edges to expose the nailing flange of the surround panels. Other panels are simply glued to the drywall and can be pried off with a flat bar or pulled off along with the drywall. Make sure all studs are free of nails and other protrusions.

   Check the studs with a level and straightedge to make sure they are plumb and that the front faces are flush with one another. Some work may be necessary to create a flat, plumb surface for the cement board backer panels.

2. Install a Moisture Barrier

   Staple sheets of 4- or 6-mil plastic sheeting over the studs to serve as a moisture barrier. Make sure the vertical seams between sheets overlap by at least 3 inches and that the bottom of the plastic slightly overlaps the edges of the shower pan. When properly installed, the moisture barrier will direct any water that penetrates the tile surface down into the shower pan.

3. Install Cement Board Backer Panels

   Cut and attach 1/2-inch-thick cement board backer panels to the studs. Cutting panels can be done with a circular saw or by scoring and snapping the panels. Screw the board to the walls with cement board screws, leaving a 1/4-inch gap between panels, then tape and mud the seams using thin-set adhesive applied with a smooth-edged trowel or drywall knife.

   Also tape and mud the joints where the cement board meets the surrounding drywall. If the tile job meets drywall at the top rather than running all the way to the ceiling, the front face of the cement board should be flush with the drywall.

4. Mark Layout Lines

   Using a level and straightedge, make vertical and horizontal layout lines on the cement board. Make sure you mark a horizontal line at the bottom of the wall to indicate the location of the first row of tiles. Leave a 1/4-inch gap between the tile and the shower pan, which will serve as the caulk seam.

   Mark a vertical centerline at the center of each wall. Test fit the bottom row of tiles, using masking tape to adhere the tiles to the wall. You can adjust the vertical layout line to the left or right, if necessary, to achieve a visually pleasing result. This adjustment can eliminate the need to cut thin segments of tiles at the sides.

5. Install the First Row of Tiles

   Mix a small amount of thin-set adhesive, as directed, mixing just enough for the first row of tiles around the perimeter of the shower pan. Use a notched trowel to apply an even coat of thin-set to the wall below the marked lines.

   Apply the first row of tiles to the wall, using the layout line to maintain a level row. Use plastic spacers to maintain uniform gaps between tiles. Firmly press the tiles to the adhesive; they should stick without any other aid.

   Tip

   Partial tiles can be cut with a ceramic tile snap cutter, or with a power wet saw, available for rent at home improvement centers and tool lease outlets.

   Let this row set for at least half a day, because it must be firmly anchored as you work upward to install the rest of the tile. As the adhesive firms up (20 to 30 minutes) remove the plastic spacers between tiles.

6. Continue Tiling Upward

   Install the remaining rows of tile using the same techniques used for the first row. Use tile spacers to maintain uniform horizontal and vertical seams between rows. Continue to the top of the tiled area or to the ceiling, as desired. If you're stopping below the ceiling, use bullnose tile for the top row to create a finished edge.

   Where you need to cut holes in the tiles for shower faucet or showerhead stub-outs, a hole saw with abrasive diamond cutting edges is the best tool.

   After the tile adhesive sets for 20 to 30 minutes, remove the plastic spacers between tiles. Let the tile adhesive set for 48 hours before grouting.

7. Grout the Tile

   Mix a batch of grout as directed by the manufacturer. For more visual appeal, choose a type of grout with a color that complements your tile.

   Use a grout float to apply grout across the face of the tile and press it into the open joints between the tiles. Multiple passes of the grout float may be needed to fully fill the joints. On the final pass, use the edge of the grout float to remove as much excess grout as possible. Scraping diagonally across the joints is the best technique for removing excess grout.

8. Clean the Tile Surface

   Wipe across the tiles again with a grout sponge dipped in clean water and wrung out very well (it should be just damp) to clean the tile faces and further smooth the grout joints. Wipe diagonally to prevent pulling grout from the joints. Let the grout cure as directed.

9. Remove Haze

   When the grout is dry to the touch, buff the tile with a clean cloth to remove the whitish haze left by the grout. You can also use a grout haze remover to speed up the work and to remove any stubborn grout or stains.

10. Seal the Joints

    Seal the grout joints with a grout sealer, using a foam brush as an applicator. Wipe away excess sealer on the face of the tiles using a dry cloth.

    Although this sealing step is sometimes omitted, it is recommended to help prevent staining and to make the grout easier to clean. Sealing is especially useful in a shower installation, where mildew is a frequent problem.

11. Finish With Caulk

    Seal the gap between the bottom row of the tile and the shower pan with pure silicone caulk. Let the caulk dry for 24 hours before using the shower.