How to Install a Tongue and Groove Pine Ceiling

Wood tongue and groove ceiling

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Project Overview
  • Total Time: 1 - 2 days
  • Yield: 10-foot by 15-foot ceiling
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
  • Estimated Cost: $600 to $1,200

Ceilings are usually made of entire 4-by-8-foot (or longer) sheets of drywall screwed to the joists of the floor above. In contrast, wooden tongue-and-groove boards offer an eye-catching alternative to drywall.

Tongue and Groove Boards

Tongue-and-groove planks are milled wood boards with a tongue on one long side and a groove on the other, so one slips into the other, much like a locking puzzle piece. The most common sizes are 4 or 6 inches wide and 4 to 16 feet long.

Before You Begin

Tongue-and-groove boards are found at most lumberyards and home centers. The most common woods used for the wood panels include pine, spruce, or cedar. The prices vary based on the woods, averaging $2.50 to $4.00 per square foot. Tongue-and-groove pine boards are often warped and splintered. Purchase the boards in person, rather than online, so you can cull out the poor boards.

Safety Considerations

Be careful on the ladder, as the long boards are difficult to control and may throw you off balance. Rent or build DIY scaffolding for large projects. Have an assistant help you handle the boards.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Electric miter saw
  • Electric drill
  • Electric nailer
  • Ladder or scaffolding
  • Painting tools
  • Rubber mallet
  • Stud finder
  • Circular saw or table saw

Materials

  • Tongue and groove pine boards
  • One-by-two furring strips
  • Primer and paint or stain
  • 1-1/2-inch screws

Instructions

  1. Measure the Ceiling For Furring Strips

    Measure the ceiling perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Use a stud finder to determine the position of the joists. Measure at three or four different points. Choose the shortest distance as the one to use when cutting the furring strips.

    Tip

    Furring strips provide a solid nailing surface, plus they flatten and equalize uneven ceilings.

  2. Cut the Furring Strips

    Cut all of the needed furring strips to the length determined earlier. With most electric miter saws, it's possible to batch-cut several one-by-twos at a time.

  3. Install the Furring Strips

    Screw the furring strips into the ceiling joists every 24 inches apart with 1-1/2-inch screws. Use the stud finder to find the location of the ceiling joists.

    Tip

    Drill a pilot hole in the one-by-twos as they are prone to cracking.

  4. Trim the Boards

    Clean one end of the planks by trimming off about 1/4-inch on the electric miter saw. Boards may have staples or rough ends. The other end of the board will later be cut when you trim the board down to size.

  5. Cut the First Board

    Measure the wall from end to end (perpendicular to the furring strips) at the end of the room. Use this measurement to cut the first tongue-and-groove board, minus 1/4-inch to allow for expansion. All boards should be measured and cut individually.

  6. Start the First Board

    Strip the tongue from one of the boards. Place the board on the ceiling perpendicular to the furring strips. The groove should be facing outward. Face nail this board into place (drive nails upward into the furring strips).

  7. Install the Second Board

    With the mallet, tap the adjoining board tongue-first into the first board. Nail it into place through its groove with the nail gun.

  8. Continue the Rest of the Boards

    Continue installing the rest of the tongue-and-groove boards in the same manner. Check each board so that it is perpendicular to the side walls. Do not rely on adjoining boards for placement. There is usually enough play in the tongue and groove area to make subtle adjustments along the way to keep the boards in line.

    While it's possible to jam slightly warped boards in place, it's usually best to return poor boards for better materials.

  9. Finish the Ceiling

    Measure the available space for the last board. On a table saw or with a circular saw, rip a board to this size, allowing a 1/4-inch expansion gap along the side. Cut the groove side. Then, nail the final board into place.

Tongue and Groove Pine Ceiling Finish Options

For a whitewashed shiplap look, first fill large nail holes. Also, if you have any considerable gaps in the tongue-and-groove joints, caulk any seams that show a gap. Consider caulking any visible cracks between the ceiling board and molding, too.

For the look of natural wood, apply linseed oil or polyurethane. Linseed oil is easier and more environmentally friendly. You can apply it with a rag or large brush, wiping or brushing the linseed oil directly onto the wood. Polyurethane is more durable and resistant. However, since ceilings don't get wear and tear, linseed oil works fine.

When to Call a Professional

Carpenters or a general contractor can install a tongue and groove pine ceiling for you. If working overhead for long periods is difficult for you, consider calling a professional. Pros can also finesse some of the trickier aspects of tongue and groove ceilings, such as imperfect boards or bowed ceilings, for a finished look.