How to Cover a Popcorn Ceiling Without Removing It

4 Ways to Safely Cover Popcorn Texture at Home

White popcorn ceiling.

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Project Overview
  • Working Time: 6 - 10 hrs
  • Total Time: 6 - 10 hrs
  • Yield: 100-square-foot ceiling
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
  • Estimated Cost: $100 to $500

Spray-texture ceiling finishes, commonly called "popcorn" or "cottage cheese" ceilings, are the outdated bane of some homeowners. The texture is said to have acoustical benefits, but builders mostly favored these old finishes because they reduced the amount of finishing work the drywaller had to do.

For the homeowner, textured ceilings come with many drawbacks. They are cobweb magnets, hard to clean and difficult to paint, and they absorb and diffuse light in a way that makes a room seem darker. Also, the textured material may contain asbestos, making removal of the texture or the ceiling problematic and costly. Covering a popcorn ceiling may be the best option when you can no longer stand the look.

Here are four different DIY-friendly methods for covering a popcorn ceiling finish without the hassle of removing the texture.

What Is Popcorn Ceiling?

Popcorn ceiling, also called stipple or acoustic ceiling, is a bumpy surface treatment created by fine, medium, and coarse particles of vermiculite or polystyrene. It also has sound-dampening properties. Drywallers and construction teams applied this popcorn layer to reduce the steps of finishing the ceiling or to cover up inconsistencies in the ceiling.

Removing Popcorn Ceiling vs. Covering It

Spray texture was a typical ceiling finish from the 1950s until the 1980s, and for much of that time, the texture material contained between 1% to 10% asbestos. The asbestos in spray-on ceiling texture poses no danger if the textured surface remains solid.

A textured ceiling that begins to crumble can put microscopic particles of asbestos into the air, where they can be inhaled. For health reasons, it's preferable to cover a crumbling textured ceiling. Sealed beneath a layer of new drywall, a skim coat of joint compound, or tongue-and-groove planks, a textured ceiling containing asbestos is quite safe. However, it would be best if you took care during installation to avoid disturbing the texture material and to wear a protective mask while working near it.

It can be unsafe to remove a popcorn ceiling yourself. If you want to remove it and asbestos is in your ceiling, get a skilled professional removal to remove it.

Tip

Test your ceiling's texture for asbestos as you prepare to cover it. If the test shows the presence of asbestos, be very careful as you cover the ceiling with insulation panels, drywall, or another surface.

Before You Begin

There are four popular options for covering over the ceiling: covering them with ordinary drywall, using a prefinished grid-plank system such as Armstrong's Easy-Up grid system, attaching furring strips, and then installing traditional tongue-and-groove planks or beadboard paneling on the ceiling, or skim coating. These methods have advantages and disadvantages you should weigh when choosing. When covering with drywall or panels, you can add a layer of foam insulation board against the ceiling before adding a layer of drywall or planking.

Drywall

Covering the ceiling with drywall is a very inexpensive option, but it can be hard work to lift and attach 8-foot-long drywall panels overhead unless you rent a special drywall lifting tool. Installing drywall also requires finishing skills that are challenging for many DIYers. Finally, if your ceiling is not perfectly flat, a drywall covering often telegraphs the underlying dips and valleys—which will be even more evident on a smooth ceiling surface.

Grid-Track Systems

Grid-track systems comprise a series of parallel channels attached to the ceiling, to which you hang prefinished fiberboard planks or tiles. The planks are available in an impressive range of colors and styles. Grid-plank ceilings are pretty easy to install, but you will pay a price for this convenience—grid ceiling systems may cost several hundred dollars to cover a ceiling. But this method can be a good choice if you have an uneven ceiling since it is possible to adjust the tracks to level out the new surface.

Tongue-and-Groove Wood Planks

Cover the ceiling with tongue-and-groove wood planks or beadboard paneling that you can buy through any quality lumber supplier.

Skim Coating

Skim-coating is a method to cover a popcorn ceiling inexpensively. The technique involves using a diluted joint compound or drywall mud applied with a trowel or drywall knife to give you an even surface. Once complete, you should have a flat, uniform ceiling for primer and paint.

Skim coating is the cheapest of all options but requires fine attention to detail. It can get messy if not done right. If you do it yourself, you'll need joint compound, a way to apply it, and patience. You'll need to do at least three coats.

Tip

All methods are a little more complicated when there's a ceiling light fixture. Remove light fixtures and add box extenders to keep fixtures flush with the new ceiling surface. Hire an electrician if you are not confident with DIY wiring projects.

Using Insulation Board

When covering with drywall or other types of panels, adding a layer of insulation board over a popcorn ceiling helps to stop airflow between the living space and an unheated attic space or roof above. It can significantly boost the thermal performance of the ceiling.

The best material for this application is rigid foam insulation, which has several different types. For the highest R-value (insulating value), use polyisocyanurate (polyiso or ISO) rigid panels. Choose polyiso panels without a foil facing.

Polyiso insulation board comes in thicknesses of 1/2 inch to 2 inches. The thicker the board, the higher its R-value. A 1/2-inch-thick board has an R-value of about 3. A 2-inch-thick board has an R-value of about 13. But remember that thicker insulation boards will require longer screws when attaching drywall, grid channels, or furring strips to the ceiling.

Tip

Polyisocyanurate (ISO) rigid insulation that does not include a foil facing can be difficult to find in some locations. Some locales may place interior-use restrictions on foil-backed foam boards, as well. Extruded polystyrene foam panels (XPS) are a good substitute offering slightly lower insulating values. XPS may be easier to find and less restricted in some areas.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

Drywall Method

  • Stepladder
  • Stud finder
  • Pencil
  • Tape measure
  • Utility knife
  • Drywall square
  • Drywall lifter (optional)
  • Screwdrivers
  • Screwgun
  • Chalk line
  • Drywall saw
  • Caulk gun
  • Drywall finishing tools

Grid-Plank Method

  • Stepladder
  • Stud finder
  • Tape measure
  • Pencil
  • Drywall saw
  • Screwgun
  • Caulk gun
  • Carpenter's level
  • Circular saw
  • Miter saw (optional)
  • Brad nailer
  • Screwdrivers

Tongue-and-Groove Plank Method

  • Stepladder
  • Stud finder
  • Caulk gun
  • Drywall saw
  • Tape measure
  • Utility knife
  • Screwgun
  • Chalk line
  • Carpenter's level
  • Brad nailer
  • Circular saw
  • Miter saw (optional)
  • Screwdrivers

Skim-coating Method

  • Ladder
  • Putty knives or trowel (6-in., 8-in, & 10 in.)
  • Mud pan
  • Sanding tools (optional)
  • Paint brush and paint roller
  • Paint pan
  • Eye protection
  • Face mask or N95 respirator

Materials

Drywall Method

  • Ceiling box extender (if needed)
  • Rigid foam insulation panels (if desired)
  • Insulation board adhesive (if needed)
  • Insulation board seam tape (if needed)
  • Drywall screws
  • Drywall panels
  • Drywall screws
  • Drywall taping compound

Grid-Plank Method

  • Foam insulation panels (if desired)
  • Insulation panel adhesive (if needed)
  • Insulation panel seam tape (if needed)
  • Drywall screws
  • Grid track system
  • Ceiling box extender (if needed)
  • Crown molding or similar trim

Tongue-and-Groove Plank Method

  • Foam insulation panels (if desired)
  • Insulation panel adhesive (if needed)
  • Insulation panel seam tape (if needed)
  • Drywall screws
  • Ceiling box extender (if needed)
  • 1 x 2 furring strips
  • Tongue-and-groove planks or beadboard panels
  • Crown molding or similar trim molding
  • Wood putty

Skim-coating Method

  • Joint compound or quick-set drywall mud
  • Ceiling primer
  • Ceiling paint
  • Drop cloth
  • Masking or painter's tape

Instructions

How to Cover a Popcorn Ceiling With Drywall

This method involves attaching a new layer of 1/4-, 3/8-, or 1/2-inch-thick drywall to the ceiling joists over the popcorn texture. While 1/4-inch-thick drywall is the lightest, these thin panels can be brittle and hard to work with, and they are flexible enough to reveal most ceiling imperfections once screwed to the ceiling. A better choice is usually 3/8- or 1/2-inch-thick drywall, which is more rigid, though heavier.

  1. Find and Mark the Ceiling Joists

    • Use a stud finder to locate each ceiling joist.
    • Mark the center of each joist at opposing sides of the room.
    • Mark the ceiling first, then transfer the marks onto the adjacent wall, a few inches down from the ceiling. This ensures the marks will be visible after the insulation is installed.
  2. Plan the Panel Layout

    • Measure the width of the room, measuring parallel to the joist direction.
    • Divide the measurement by 48 inches (the width of an insulation panel) to determine how many full panel rows there will be. If the remainder is less than 6 inches, plan to trim at least 6 inches from the first row of panels, so you'll have full-width (or nearly full-width) panels in the last row.
  3. Adapt the Light Fixture Boxes

    If the ceiling has a light fixture, adapt the ceiling box to accommodate the extra thickness of the insulation and drywall panels. Call an electrician if you are not skilled in DIY electrical repairs. Otherwise:

    • Shut off the power.
    • Disconnect and temporarily remove the light fixture.
    • Install an extension ring or new, deeper electrical box so that the face of the ceiling box will be flush with the surface of the new ceiling panels.
  4. Install the First Insulation Panel

    • If necessary, trim the first panel to width using a drywall saw or sharp utility knife.
    • Apply a wavy bead of insulation board adhesive to the panel's backside and press the panel onto the ceiling at the beginning of the first row.
    • Tack the panel in place with a few drywall screws driven into the ceiling joists using a screwgun.
  5. Install the Remaining Panels

    Repeat the same process to install the remaining panels. Push the panels tightly together and snugly against the walls on all sides.

    For obstacles such as ceiling electrical boxes, use a wallboard saw or utility knife to cut openings or notches to fit the insulation panel.

  6. Tape the Panel Seams

    Cover the joints between panels with a panel insulation tape recommended by the manufacturer. This blocks airflow between the panels, not creating a vapor barrier.

  7. Snap Chalk Lines

    Snap chalk lines across the installed panels to mark the centers of the ceiling joists. You will use these as guides for driving screws when installing the new ceiling drywall.

    • Stretch the chalk line between opposing marks on the side walls with the aid of a helper.
    • Snap the line over the paneled surface to create continuous reference lines.
  8. Install Drywall Panels

    • Beginning along the longest wall, lift and attach drywall panels to the ceiling using drywall screws driven into the ceiling joists.
    • Space the screws every 8 inches along the edge of the panels and every 12 inches through the field of the panel.
    • Make sure to use drywall screws of sufficient length to penetrate through the insulation board and existing drywall ceiling and into the ceiling joists. If you are using 1-inch insulation panels, for example, use screws at least 3 inches long. Insulation panels that are 2 inches thick will call for drywall screws at least 4 inches long.
    • Hoisting and attaching panels overhead can be hard work. At the very least, you'll need a helper or rent a drywall lifter tool.
    • Cut the last panel to size at the end of the row using a drywall square and utility knife. With subsequent rows, make sure to stagger joints, so they don't line up from row to row.
  9. Tape and Finish the Drywall

    • Cover the seams of the installed ceiling surface with drywall joint tape.
    • Finish the seams and screw heads with drywall joint compound.

How to Cover a Popcorn Ceiling with Grid-Plank System

Modern grid ceiling systems are similar to the older suspended drop ceilings that use large acoustic panels. These newer systems use much more stylish prefinished fiberboard planks that can look very much like natural wood paneling. Once a series of parallel metal tracks are attached to the ceiling joists, the planks are very quickly installed with metal clips.

  1. Locate and Mark Joists

    Using a stud finder, locate and mark the center of each ceiling joist. Mark the center of each joist at opposing sides of the room, then transfer the marks onto the adjacent wall, a few inches down from the ceiling. This ensures the marks will be visible after the insulation is installed.

  2. Install Insulation Panels (Optional)

    If desired, you can install foam insulation panels against the ceiling surface (see steps 2 to 7 above). After installing the insulation, snap chalk lines across the panels to mark the centers of the ceiling joists.

  3. Mark Track Locations

    Measure and mark the joist reference lines to indicate where the system's tracks will be installed. The tracks must be precisely parallel. Ensure not to run tracks directly over ceiling electrical boxes or other obstacles.

  4. Attach Metal Tracks

    Attach the metal tracks to the ceiling joists at the spacing suggested by the grid-plank system's instructions using drywall screws. With most systems, the tracks should have a gap of 2 inches to the wall. Use screws long enough to penetrate the insulation panels and ceiling joists. The tracks must be precisely parallel and spaced correctly. Where two or more track segments must be used, the ends can be overlapped; they do not need to be cut to size.

    Check the tracks with a long level to make sure they are flat and level. The screws anchoring the tracks can be adjusted to level the installation if necessary.

  5. Install the First Row of Planks

    Prepare the first row of planks as directed by the manufacturer. With most systems, this involves cutting off the tongue side of the planks.

    Install the first row of planks to run perpendicular to the metal tracks; the trimmed edge should face the wall. Screw one side of the planks to the metal tracks, then secure the tongue side with the metal clips provided by the manufacturer. The clips fit into the tracks, then slide into place to hold the groove edge of the planks.

  6. Continue Installing Planks

    Work across the room to install the subsequent planks, cutting the planks to length as needed using a circular or miter saw. Each plank's tongue edge fits into the groove of the previous row and then is held in place with additional clips attached to the tracks. Ensure to maintain a 3/4-inch gap between the ends of the planks and the wall (or whatever interval is recommended by the manufacturer).

    End joints should be staggered so they don't line up from row to row. End joints should be offset by at least 16 inches, preferably more.

  7. Install the Final Row

    For the final row, trim off the grooved edge to create the correct plank width, then install the planks. Secure the wall edge of the planks with screws driven into the tracks. Ensure to maintain the recommended expansion gap between the last row of planks and the wall.

  8. Add Moldings

    Cover the expansion gaps along the walls with a crown or trim molding attached to the walls with a brad nailer. Fill the nail holes with matching wood putty.

How to Cover a Popcorn Ceiling with Tongue-and-Groove Planks or Bead-Board Panels

Covering a ceiling with traditional tongue-and-groove planks or bead-board paneling is a conventional method. The result looks very similar to the grid-track system. This method is less expensive but more labor-intensive.

  1. Mark Ceiling Joists

    Use a stud finder to locate the ceiling joists. Make reference lines extending down the walls to indicate the joist locations.

  2. Install Insulation Panels (Optional)

    If you wish, insulate the ceiling with foam insulation panels installed against the ceiling surface (see above).

  3. Snap Chalk Lines

    After installing the insulation, snap chalk lines across the panels to mark the centers of the ceiling joists. Mark these lines at 18-inch intervals to show the location of furring strips.

  4. Cut and Install Furring Strips

    Cut 1 x 2 furring strips and attach them to the ceiling joists with drywall screws. Use screws long enough to penetrate and anchor the insulation panels into the joists.

    Check the furring strips in both directions with a carpenter's level to make sure they are flat and level. You can adjust individual furring strips with shims placed beneath the anchoring screws if necessary.

    Take your time checking and adjusting the furring strips. Flat, level installation is essential for good results with the planks or panels.

  5. Install Tongue-and-Groove Planks or Beadboard Panels

    Cut tongue-and-groove planks or beadboard panels to size and attach them to the furring strips using a brad nailer. Make sure end joints are staggered from row to row. Maintain a slight gap around the walls to allow for expansion.

  6. Add Trim Molding

    Cover the gaps around the planks or panels with crown molding or another trim molding, attaching the molding to the walls with a brad nailer.

How to Cover a Popcorn Ceiling with Skim Coating

Skim-coating a popcorn ceiling is the cheapest method for covering it. It doesn't require the removal of the popcorn texture, which is messy and potentially hazardous if the popcorn contains asbestos. This method requires three coats. It can be a little time-consuming since you should wait 24 hours between coats, but it is easy for anyone who feels comfortable working on a ladder to accomplish.

  1. Prepare the Work Area

    When working with a joint compound on the ceiling, you might experience splatters or drips when smoothing out your coating on the ceiling.

    • Lay out a drop cloth to cover the floors.
    • Mask or apply painter's tape to protect the top of the wall edges.
    • Don eye protection and a face mask.
    • Get a ladder tall enough for you to reach the ceiling easily.
  2. Clean the Ceiling

    Using a vacuum, remove the dirt, dust, and cobwebs that might be up on the ceiling.

  3. Prime the Ceiling

    Paint one layer of ceiling primer on the ceiling. If the popcorn contains asbestos, this helps encapsulate it. Additionally, it prepares the surface for accepting the drywall mud or joint compound.

  4. Apply the Mud Compound

    • Mix and dilute the compound with some water to give you the consistency of thick pancake batter. You do not want it so thin that it slides off your putty knife or trowel.
    • Using a trowel or wide putty knife, apply a thin, even coat of the mud compound on the ceiling. Start from the edges and corners and work inward.
    • Smooth it out as you go. Do not lay it on thick.
  5. Allow the Coat to Dry

    Even if the package says it dries sooner, giving the compound 24 hours to dry between coats is best.

  6. Sand Between Coats (Optional)

    Professionals often sand between coats, but this step is unnecessary and messy. It may give you a smoother finish, but if you take the time to smooth out your compound as you apply it, your coat should be nice and even.

    Alternatively, you can sand before your finishing coat (between coats two and three) or after your finishing coat.

  7. Apply Second and Third Coats

    A second and third coat are a must to remove the popcorn texture from the ceiling. If you only do one coat, you can still see the ridged texture from the popcorn.

    • Consider sanding between coats if your surface is uneven or you can see trowel marks.
    • Allow 24 hours for drying between coats.
  8. Prime and Paint the Ceiling

    • Once dry, whether you have sanded your ceiling or not, you should wipe down the surface with a dry or slightly moistened cloth. Allow the surface to fully dry.
    • Paint the ceiling with one coat of primer.
    • Allow it to dry.
    • Paint the ceiling the color of your choice.
FAQ
  • Do all popcorn ceilings contain asbestos?

    Asbestos is not in every popcorn ceiling; however, if it was erected between 1945 and 1980, there's a higher likelihood it has asbestos in it.

  • What is the cheapest way to cover a popcorn ceiling?

    Skim coating is the cheapest way to cover a popcorn ceiling with a fresh, smooth surface to top with a new coat of paint. Do-it-yourselfers can apply skim coating with a bit of finesse and attention to detail.

  • What is the best material to cover popcorn ceilings?

    To cover a popcorn ceiling, drywall is a popular option, Wood planks comes a close second.

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.
  1. Learn About Asbestos. United Stated Environmental Protection Agency.

  2. Dahlgren JG, Talbott PJ. Lung cancer from asbestos textured ceilings: a case studyInt J Occup Environ Health. 2016;22(2):175-178.