How to Tell If a Wall Is Load-Bearing: 9 Signs

You'll want to know how to tell if a wall is load-bearing before you remove or alter it to merge rooms, add space, or rethink your home's layout. Several clues can help you determine this, even without removing the drywall or other invasive measures. Read on to learn the signs of whether or not you have a load-bearing wall.

Load bearing wall with exposed ceiling and wooden structures

The Spruce / Margot Cavin

What Is a Load-Bearing Wall?

A load-bearing wall supports itself and the elements located directly above it, such as floors, joists, roofing, or other walls. This type of wall transfers the weight of the upper elements to the foundation.

A partition or non-load-bearing wall supports only itself and lightweight items like shelves, pictures, and interior doors. A partition wall can be removed without affecting the home’s structure. But if a load-bearing wall is removed, serious damage to the home could occur.

Tip

Consult with a structural engineer, contractor, or architect to confirm that a wall is load-bearing or non-load-bearing before removing it.

How to Tell If a Wall Is Load-Bearing

House blueprints and architectural plans are the first places to check if the walls are load-bearing. Information that may help you identify a load-bearing wall includes:

  • Symbols in the plan's legend, such as "S" for structural
  • Thicker lines that indicate thicker walls
  • Hatching, or symbols that identify steel, concrete, or brick walls
  • Supporting columns within the walls

Wall Is Perpendicular to the Joists

If the wall runs perpendicular (at a 90-degree angle) to the joists, it is likely a load-bearing wall.

When the wall runs parallel to the floor joists, it typically is not a load-bearing wall. In some instances, a bearing wall might be parallel to the joists. The wall may be aligned directly under a single joist or it might bear on blocking adding between two adjacent joists.

Wooden joints exposed in ceiling of load bearing wall

The Spruce / Margot Cavin

Wall Is a Partial Wall With a Beam

A partial wall with a beam running alongside it might be a load-bearing wall.

A partial wall stops short of an adjacent wall. The beam will often be a ceiling projection (downward) that runs directly into the partial wall. The builder may have installed a microlam beam to span the opening and carry the load above.

Fire stove in front of microlam beam of partial wall

The Spruce / Margot Cavin

Wall Is an Exterior Wall

An exterior wall is almost always a load-bearing wall.

Exterior walls form the perimeter, or outer footprint, of a house. Where there are windows and doors, the walls include beams, or headers, spanning across the tops of the openings. Posts on either side of the openings support the beams. In essence, these headers are partial wall replacements since they carry the weight that a wall would have carried.

Tip

Modern homes that appear to have no supporting exterior walls still do have support in the form of steel or wooden columns interspersed between the windows.

Balcony HDR
© by Martin Deja / Getty Images

Wall Is a Masonry Wall

If the wall is made of concrete, bricks, or blocks, it may be a load-bearing wall.

Not all masonry is structural and capable of bearing loads. Manufactured veneer stone is a decorative product and cannot support loads. It is lightweight and prone to crumbling under stress.

Concrete house foundation

Fred de Noyelle / Getty Images

Wall Has a Support Structure Below It

A wall that has any type of support system below it will likely be structural and load-bearing.

If the wall is on the first floor of the house, and there is a basement or crawlspace below, you can check in the lower level for these supports. You may find another wall or other supporting member (piers, beams, columns, jack posts, etc.) directly below and following the same path as the wall above.

Construction Site: Neat Clean Crawlspace, Floor Joists, and Pony Wall
Double_Vision / Getty Images

Wall Is Braced From the Roof

Check the home's framing in the attic. If the wall is attached to bracing in the roof frame, the wall is load-bearing.

Built-in shelves in an attic with boxes around them

cerro_photography / Getty Images

Wall Is Thicker Than Other Walls

The wall may be load-bearing if it is thicker than other walls in the home.

Partition or non-load-bearing walls are built with two-by-fours. Load-bearing walls are also built with two-by-fours but also with two-by-sixes or two-by-eights. It's rarely necessary to build a partition wall thicker than 4 inches thick.

Masonry wall behind fire stove as load bearing wall

The Spruce / Margot Cavin

Wall Is Connected to the Foundation

Walls that connect directly to foundation walls are usually load-bearing.

Foundation walls are always load-bearing. Made of structural masonry materials like concrete block or poured concrete, the primary role of foundation walls is to support the weight of the house. 

House Foundation

NicholasMcComber / Getty Images

Wall Is in the Center of the Structure

A wall that runs down the center of a house might be a load-bearing wall that helps support the weight of the roof.

Look inside the attic to see if the house has trusses. If the trusses are perpendicular to the wall in question and sit on top of the wall, the wall is a load-bearing wall.

House With Trusses in Attic

Kinek00 / Getty Images

Cost to Remove a Load-Bearing Wall

Removing a load-bearing wall can be expensive, costing an average of $5,700. The price to remove a load-bearing wall ranges from $1,400 in a single-story home to more than $15,000 in a multi-story home. Here are many factors to consider when deciding to remove a load-bearing wall:

  • Materials: Some of the items needed once a load-bearing wall is removed range from beam materials to touch-up paint or wallpaper.
  • Labor: You will likely need to hire a general contractor and subcontractors for this project. Professionals typically charge for labor only by the day or hour.
  • Size of the wall and home: The removal cost is typically calculated per square foot for the walls and linear foot for beams. High ceilings in your home can also increase the cost of removal.
  • Rerouting wiring and plumbing: Electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and possibly gas lines will need to be rerouted after removing a load-bearing wall.

Removing a load-bearing wall is typically not a DIY project. It's best to hire a professional contractor or structural engineer to assess and safely handle the project.

FAQ
  • What does a non-load-bearing wall look like?

    A non-load-bearing wall can look just like a load-bearing wall at first glance. In the attic, a non-load-bearing wall will usually run parallel to the joists and rafters.

  • Can a partial wall be load-bearing?

    A partial wall can be load-bearing. The wall may bear the weight above it, with a hidden or exposed beam bearing the rest of the weight.

  • How much of a load-bearing wall can be removed?

    You can remove all or part of a load-bearing wall as long as there is another way to carry the weight. The weight may be carried by a beam or support columns. Consult with a structural engineer or contractor. They can check load and span tables to help you determine how much, if any, of the load-bearing wall can be removed.

  • Is it against building codes to remove a load-bearing wall?

    It is against building codes to remove a load-bearing wall without necessary permits, which are usually obtained by a professional structural engineer.

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